by aramatzne@gmail.com | 2 Nov 2018 | Roads Taken
Afternoon shadows on the mountains of Norde Isfjorden National Park, Svalbard.
Confession
I am reluctant to write about Svalbard and the Arctic. The place is so far removed from the usual and from the expectations of the norm that it is difficult to describe.
I have had a few conversations with people where pieces of the whole leaked out, like secrets I was not meant to share. And the response was as anticipated – the ideas, the images were so beyond recognition and understanding as to be preposterous.
Like rumors, gossip that is not unheard of but beyond credibility. The Arctic and the small corner of Svalbard that I saw fall into this category.
The colors of autumn in an October sunset over Spitsbergen.
The mountains rise directly from the sea and the fjords unimpeded by beaches or plains; the glaciers grind down the mountains and valleys. The sky extends beyond the imagination in colors that don’t exist in other realms. The atmosphere is both clearer and thicker, which seems counterintuitive and contradictory. The sun is never overhead – even in summer, it circles the horizon at a stubbornly low angle. Setting in late October and not rising again until mid-February it begrudgingly offers light for eight months a year. Graciously, however, it bestows the same amount of light in the year that the rest of the globe receives. When there are snow and ice, the colors of the sky offset the monochrome palette of mountains and rocks. Distance is deceptive and what appears just across the tundra may be hours away. Mountains loom above the water, glaciers loom above the people, and the sky wraps us all into its folds indiscriminately.
Challenge
Does the Arctic feel my absence the way I feel its? No. The land is indifferent to me. The Arctic does not suffer fools lightly, and only a fool would go to the Arctic for a few weeks thinking that was enough.
To say I am changed is trite. To deny it is folly. My challenge now is to express what seeped into my consciousness and spirit without losing the essence of the experience, without giving in to hyperbole and empty words.
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by aramatzne@gmail.com | 21 Oct 2018 | Roads Taken
The tall ship Antigua
The Arctic Circle residency is conducted on a tall ship. Twenty-eight residents, seven crew, and four guides set sail from Longyearbyen on Spitsbergen to explore the west coast of Svalbard. We found sun, snow, glaciers, icebergs, rain, reindeer, polar bear tracks, walruses, seasickness, fulmars, ethereal calm, swimming beaches, northern lights, excellent food, sublime sunsets, blue air, fierce winds, islands, waves, epic hikes, camaraderie, laughter, collective awe, joy, and humility. Each person brought their unique perspective, their creativity, and their best game to the ship. We were all richly rewarded.
The Antigua anchored at the foot Ymerbukta, our first glacier.
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by aramatzne@gmail.com | 18 Oct 2018 | Roads Taken
Landfall
Back on Terra Firma. This was an amazing trip: Snow, cold, ice, glaciers, mountains, rough seas, sailing, tight quarters, Arctic sun, reindeer, walruses, epic hiking, creativity, adventure, an amazing crew, and diverse shipmate-residents.
There is a lot for me to process, I’m in Oslo for a day and then the still-long trip back to Oregon begins. I expect to be reunited with the truck and Big Cat in Montana on Tuesday or Wednesday and hope to be home by Friday, 26 October. I will begin sorting and processing thoughts and images along the way. Stay tuned. xoxo
Grazing reindeer on Isfjord, Spitsbergen
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by aramatzne@gmail.com | 30 Sep 2018 | Roads Taken
Town
I understand now that the sun is too low on the horizon to clear the mountains around Longyearbyen; I look forward to sailing into the sunshine on Monday. Below are a few more shots around town.
Sunshine so far away.
A stylish/stylized/styling polar bear all dressed up for a day on the town.
The unknown miner drills into mid-town coal reserves.
Sun catches both ends of the mountains across the fjord but stays out of town this time of year.
The mountains across Isfjorden catch a few late afternoon rays.
The old coal cableway looks down upon the current power plant. No indication of what keeps the new plant firing.
All roads lead to Isfjorden and views of Nordre Isfjorden National Park beyond.
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by aramatzne@gmail.com | 29 Sep 2018 | Roads Taken
At long last
Finally, I landed on Svalbard yesterday morning. It seems a long time coming and now, here I am. The air is cold and dry, the sun lingers at the top of the all-encompassing mountains but doesn’t seem to find its way into the valley where Longyearbyen is nestled. Snow fell quietly through the evening and into the morning. Tomorrow the rest of The Arctic Circle residents arrive; we sail on Monday.
Here are my first views and impressions. I do not expect to have cell service or internet over the coming weeks. I promise to check in as soon as I can. Stay warm and see you here again soon. xoxo T
The first view of Svalbard
An open glacial valley with a braided stream in the bottom wends its way through inland Svalbard.
Flying into Longyearbyen, Svalbard, Norway.
Snow squalls move across Isfjorden toward Longyearbyen, later engulfing the mountains, port, and town.
Repeating patterns of rock and power towers in early autumn snow.
The multicolored housing of Longyearbyen contrasts with the monochromatic scheme of Svalbard.
Metal roofs in Longyearbyen imitate mountain ridge lines.
Modern Quonset huts mimic the position and image of mountains across Isfjorden.
The old coal cableway oversees new apartment buildings. The cableway was used to transfer coal from the mines to ships in Isfjorden.
The church and the coal cableway share the hillside above Longyearbyen.
Longyearbyen School stands at the edge of town, the mountains of Nordre Isfjorden National Park stand behind the school across Isfjorden.
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by aramatzne@gmail.com | 10 Sep 2018 | Roads Taken
Retreat
Lake Albigna, near Vicosoprano, Switzerland, 2,163m (7,096 ft) above sea level, was dammed for hydropower in the 1950s, a gondola was built to transport equipment and workers to the base of the glacier fields. Today, the gondola carries hikers and rock climbers to see the spectacular indescribable color of the glacial lake, to climb the granite walls, and to hike through alpine meadows. The glaciers are disappearing rapidly; the lake is not far behind.
The engineered lines of Albigna Dam stand high above the Bergell Valley in southern Switzerland.
Built in the 1950s, the Albigna Dam created a glacial lake of stunning of color and power-producing utility.
Albigna Glacier retreats into its valley.
The indescribable color of glacial water contrasts with the texture of mountain rock.
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