3 October 2018 – Day two, or is it three?

3 October 2018 – Day two, or is it three?

Time zones and timelines

At some point during my trip, I realized that I never changed the date and time on my camera to reflect the European time zone. Photos I take on one day appear with a different day and time than when I took them. Time becomes irrelevant and the bright days flow into cold, star-filled nights. The textures of water, clouds, and mountains shift with the morning and evening light, the wind, and the speed of Antigua.

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Cloud and mountain play as one

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

The last of the autumn birds

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

The long, flat plain gives way

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Reflective water stretches mountains

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Land breaching

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Mountains rise from the water

At the end of the day

Last impressions of the first day

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Worn, gray glacier ice plows past mountains

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Ymerbukta’s high point, an esker at the foot of Esmarkbreen

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Minuartia, maybe? Still blooming under the first fall snow during the first week of October.

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Esmarkbreen and Ymerbukta

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

The face of Esmarkbreen

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Deck of the tall ship Antigua

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Northern lights play over Antigua’s bow

Ymerbukta and Esmarkbreen

Views from a glacier front

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Iceberg on sand

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Arctic Circle residents exploring

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Ice and mountain

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Bow and ice

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Landscape number x. Brown and russet, gray and white, tundra and mountain.

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Purple sandpiper

Esmarkbreen – not quite monochrome

Along the glacier’s edge

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Glacial ice boulder at the edge of Esmarkbreen

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Boulder in perspective

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Glacier’s edge at mountains’ feet

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Ice and rock = rock dust

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Scale

Setting sails

2 October – Ymerbukta

Antigua, Ymerbukta, Alaska, Sailing, setting sail, sailsArctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, sailing, sails, setting sail, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scaleanimals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta

Tall ship Antigua at anchor in Ymerbukta

We left port yesterday afternoon with the motor but put up the sails quickly and fairly flew across the fjord. We helped with the sails – a token effort by the guests. Ropes everywhere, sails pulled up front to back and staysail in the bow. The wind was high and rough and almost everyone felt it. I did well outside but inside was pretty queasy. Eating helped and the food was good. I didn’t eat a lot and went to bed almost immediately.

Someone pounded on the door to say the aurora was visible. Lena (my cabinmate) and I got dressed and went out but there was little activity and after 10 minutes I went back to bed. By the time we went up for the aurora the crew had pulled down the sails and dropped anchor in a quiet arm of the fjord with a wall to protect us from the wind bombing out of the north. The water was calm, and the boat rocked gently for the night.

We did a landing this morning and a hike up the glacier edge. The grays and greens and blues are satisfying and intense. The glacier was growling and grumbling. Thunder came from within the glacier, massive rolling peals as it shifted and creaked into a new position. It calved audibly but we couldn’t see it from where we were, though we watched the wave from the calved iceberg cross the bay and wash up onto the shore.

The landscape is wide open and at the same time constrained within the walls of glaciers and the surrounding mountains. The beach is gravel and sand with gently lapping water. There is a tide, but it seems very small. Black guillemots in their winter attire were on the water and a few purple sandpipers along the beach. Two seals followed us when we first landed; they barked at us.

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Ymerbukta, Sailing, setting sail, sailsArctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Ant-sized humans cross the gravel outwash plain at the foot of Esmarkbreen

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta, scale

Arctic Circle residents hike along glacier’s edge

 

And the rest of the crew

The people, part 3

Last but not least, this rounds out the cast. Twenty-eight residents and 11 crew members set sail for two weeks on the waters of the North Atlantic. Tight quarters, snowy weather, and a boatful of ideas make for lively times.

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta

Carson contemplates

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta

Mary Ellen in the ice field

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta

Andrea intensely focused

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta

Rachel in waders

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta

Lindsay at the rail; Dawn under the veil

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta

Kristin at leisure

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta

Nora seeds the Arctic water with ice cubes. Restoration.

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta

Isaac in the Zodiac

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta

Barbara C. in the white sea

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta

The galley crew, Piet, Janene, and Jannah, after dinner calm

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta

Crew member Alex climbs

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta

Siegmund with walruses in sight

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta

David in the middle

 

The Road not Taken Enough