The Divine Arctic Comedy, Hell

Barbara Crawford, a co-resident on the Arctic Circle, asked me to write three essays to introduce her exhibit opening this June in the Montefalco Museum, Montefalco, Italy. The gallery has three rooms one leading into the next where she is presenting her paintings and sculptures from Svalbard in a version of The Divine Comedy, each room will be introduced by an essay and will follow the themes of Hell, Purgatory, and Heaven. Hell is explored through water and the past, Purgatory as ice and the present, Heaven in air and the future. If you happen to be in Umbria in June, be sure to visit. In the meantime, and with no further delay, here is Part 1, Hell.

 

Hell       Water       Past    

 

Distant. Persistent. Resistant. Recalcitrant.

Alaska, animals, Antigua, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, autumn, climate change, coal, Esmarkbreen, glacier, gratitude, hiking, ice, jigsaw, Longyearbyen, mine number 2, mines, mining, Norway, Oslo, perimeter, photography, puzzle, Recherchebreen, Recherchefjorden, Roads, scale, scree, slopes, snow, Spitsbergen, Svalbard, tall ship, talus, The Arctic Circle, travel, walkabout, water, west, winter, words, world, Ymerbukta

Immemorial time – Before there was Europe or Svalbard, the Arctic Ocean or coal, even before there was life, there was primordial soup – a steamy, overheated, water bath that covered the Earth. Whatever you believe about creation or evolution, there are undeniable truths: seafloors spread, mountains rose, life began.

Advance – Fire and brimstone greeted the first water-borne carbon-based biological beings. Across time, continents moved, an atmosphere formed, and life burgeoned. Shapeshifting was the norm, land masses stretched and smashed together; oceans mixed and remixed, and uplifted mountains washed back into the seas. Plants and animals diversified, flourished, lived, and died. Their bodies fell to the earth, to the seafloor, into the future in conglomerations of sediments and carbon reserves.

Mountain chains were spurned by wandering continents, eroded by unceasing weather, and churned by heat and pressure into new forms, into new mountains or no mountains. Carbon was compressed deeper, harder. Pieces changed position or were reworked, but the players remained the same.

Cosmos.

Time immemorial proceeded into the ages of the ancients, pharaohs, empires, and deities. What was once wild and raw and orderly in its state of natural fluctuation became fodder for the human dynasty.

Infrangible, adj.: not capable of being broken or separated into parts 

“Eden is a conversation. It is the conversation of the human with the Divine. And it is the reverberations of that conversation that create a sense of place. It is not a thing, Eden, but a pattern of relationships, made visible in conversation. To live in Eden is to live in the midst of good relations, of just relations scrupulously attended to, imaginatively maintained through time. Altogether we call this beauty.” Barry Lopez

 

There are no words

Death

Svalbard, Recherchebreen, scale, perimeter, Recherchefjorden, Oslo, Norway, snow, winter,Svalbard, Spitsbergen, Longyearbyen, The Arctic Circle, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, Esmarkbreen, Ymerbukta, ice, glacier, tall ship, Antigua

Ice, snow, water, cloud, light, texture

 

I know that there are no words to make death better and so, I often remain silent for too long when people I know suffer a loss. For all the power of words, they are only words, and they cannot replace the love of a lifetime, a father, husband, or child. They cannot replace the smile, the joy, the humor of one who is no longer.

Process

Svalbard, Recherchebreen, scale, perimeter, Recherchefjorden, Oslo, Norway, snow, winter,Svalbard, Spitsbergen, Longyearbyen, The Arctic Circle, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, Esmarkbreen, Ymerbukta, ice, glacier, tall ship, Antigua

Lessons in scale.

 

For months I have been ruminating, exploring my experience on Svalbard. I am leery of processing my photos – they cannot truly represent the exquisite colors and textures of the ice, the ocean, the landscape. They cannot convey the quality of light, the weight of the cold air, or smell of snow. They only pluck at the edges of the vast expanse, the scale of mountains, glaciers, open water, and solitude. It does not seem possible to feel the distance, the isolation, or the fortitude of the place, resolutely anchored in the north with nothing but open water and ice between it and the North Pole.

No words

Svalbard, Recherchebreen, scale, perimeter, Recherchefjorden, Oslo, Norway, snow, winter,Svalbard, Spitsbergen, Longyearbyen, The Arctic Circle, Arctic, Arctic Ocean, Esmarkbreen, Ymerbukta, ice, glacier, tall ship, Antigua,polar bear, climate change, death,

Polar bear tracks disappearing

Now, more than ever in our species’ memories, the Arctic is commonly open water. The ice ages and Little Ice Age are gone. The pack ice of the Arctic Ocean basin, oscillating around the northern axis; building and retreating; seizing ships and men of old; providing a hunting and birthing platform for animals supremely adapted to the cold, the ice, and the dark; releasing accumulated nutrients into the water for the ocean-bound and the flying, diving creatures of summer; this great pack ice is leaving us.

There are no words that can mollify this loss. And yet, now more than ever is no time to be silent.

 

 

 

2018 in retrospect, Part I

Each year I put together a dozen or so photos that describe the year past. This year I have an extra year’s worth of photos from Svalbard so I am presenting them in two parts. I hope you enjoy them.

Part I

The year stateside.

Oregon, flowers, wildflower
Arrowleaf balsamroot
Oregon, Rattlesnake Canyon, Owyhee, eastern Oregon, Oregon desert trail, ONDA
Rattlesnake Canyon
Owyhee, storm,Oregon, Rattlesnake Canyon, Owyhee, eastern Oregon, Oregon desert trail, ONDA
Owyhee storm
Painted Hills, Owyhee, storm,Oregon, Rattlesnake Canyon, Owyhee, eastern Oregon, Oregon desert trail, ONDA, central Oregon, paleontology
Painted Hills
Painted Hills, Owyhee, storm,Oregon, Rattlesnake Canyon, Owyhee, eastern Oregon, Oregon desert trail, ONDA, central Oregon, paleontology
Painted Hills 2
Painted Hills, Owyhee, storm,Oregon, Rattlesnake Canyon, Owyhee, eastern Oregon, Oregon desert trail, ONDA, central Oregon, paleontology, bobcat
Bob
Painted Hills, Owyhee, storm,Oregon, Rattlesnake Canyon, Owyhee, eastern Oregon, Oregon desert trail, ONDA, central Oregon, paleontology
Cat
Painted Hills, Owyhee, storm,Oregon, Rattlesnake Canyon, Owyhee, eastern Oregon, Oregon desert trail, ONDA, central Oregon, paleontology, Crater Lake
Crater Lake and Wizard Island
Crater Lake and Wizard Island, Ashland, smoke, smoke season, sunset
Smoke Sunset

The people who change nature

Antigua, permafrost, permaculture, glacier, Arctic Ocean, Ymerbukta, Esmarkbreen, Longyearbyen, The Arctic Circle, Svalbard, Spitsbergen, Norway, climate change

Polar Permaculture dome glows with pink grow lights in Longyearbyen’s early morning light.

 

“A Yup’ik hunter on Saint Lawrence Island once told me that what traditional Eskimos fear most about us is the extent of our power to alter the land, the scale of that power, and the fact that we can easily effect some of these changes electronically, from a distant city. Eskimos, who sometimes see themselves as still not quite separate from the animal world, regard us as a kind of people whose separation may have become too complete. They call us, with a mixture of incredulity and apprehension, “the people who change nature.”

Barry Lopez in Arctic Dreams

 

Antigua, coal, fossil fuel, coal power, coal plant, power plant, glacier, Arctic Ocean, Ymerbukta, Esmarkbreen, Longyearbyen, The Arctic Circle, Svalbard, Spitsbergen, Norway, climate change

The plume of smoke released from its coal-powered plant exposes Barentsburg’s location from across Isfjorden.

In pursuit

Reality

There is no going back.

We all know the results of our collective actions, we see it daily in raging hurricanes, in photos of starving polar bears, and microplastics in alpine lakes and city water supplies alike. The hundreds, perhaps thousands, of conservation organizations, environmental advocates, and ecological prophets bend ears at every opportunity; if we can reach the children, the lawmakers, the governments, surely things will change, surely we will make a difference. We lament the loss of things many will never see outside of TV or a zoo – elephants and tigers, glaciers and polar ice caps.

A dream

I point no fingers, as I am guilty, too: I drive, I fly, I use more water than necessary, I appreciate many comforts of modern living.

I go to Svalbard next week with the dream of connecting people to a world they may never experience, to a place that bears the brunt of our time, and does so stoically, as those with the gravest injuries tend toward silence while the superficially wounded produce the loudest caterwauling. How long before we recognize the consequences of our actions? How long before we bring the Arctic and its denizens to their knees?

I don’t pretend to have the answer. I am not so arrogant to think that my trip will change the face of our culture nor our fate. I believe we each have a role and every person who connects with the natural world becomes sympathetic to its plight. To our plight. We are not separate.

I am in pursuit of this connection. For myself, yes, but also for the wild upon which we depend, for it depends equally upon us.

I will have limited to no internet over the coming weeks. Bear with me; I will post what I can. I look forward to catching up here when I return to stable wifi. In the meantime, wish me many polar bears and stunning northern lights.

Stay on the sunny side. xoxo T

 

 

 

 

A thread of ones and zeros

Then

Cooper Island seems a lifetime ago, the light, the endless bird calls, the sand, the cold and eternal, infernal wind. They are far away now. I returned to Cooper the following summer for a shorter stay, and after demanding a wall tent in which I could stand up and be out of the wind simultaneously. By then George met Darcy Frey and the momentum of Cooper drastically increased as Darcy visited the island, interviewing George and me; later Joe McNally came to photograph Cooper and its residents, avian and otherwise. The story was published in the New York Times Sunday Magazine, George Divoky’s Planet, in 2002. Climate change was under debate (yes, even then and even still) and George’s 30-year data set was a prime source of intrigue. The birds George studied definitively returned to their mutual island almost two weeks earlier than when he began summering, and I use the term loosely, on Cooper Island.

Black Guillemots are cavity nesters; when the winter’s snow and ice retreat sufficiently to allow birds to enter their cavities, make it cozy, and spend time, well, nesting, they return. First, there are some flybys, birds stay in the air, doing visual reconnaissance; how much snow is there on their chosen sand spit? Are the nest sites visible? Flybys become fleeting landings, a strut or two along the ground or a momentary claiming of the nest box, snow preventing entering but exposure allowing dibs, if you will. Finally, birds arrive in droves, the mating rituals begin, and the birds settle into family life, breeding, eggs, chicks, frenetic but fleeting teenage days, and fledging. All racing against the spin of the Arctic seasons that until recently favored the dark, cold months.

As the climate continues to change and shift in ways we mere mortals can only guess, the birds long ago began to play the odds, returning earlier with the expectation that their summer homes will be open and inviting earlier this year than last. And, of course, we, mere mortals, are responsible for the Guillemots’ extended summering. Argue what you like, the world is changing and the creatures we so readily dismiss as animals are way ahead of us in understanding and appreciating the implications. They may not discuss it in political terms or devise computer models to help predict their future, but they recognize the current, if limited, advantage or disadvantage that it presents.

As Guillemots nest earlier each decade, polar bears are forced off the ice as it disintegrates beneath them. Traditionally following the ice north through summer, bears are left swimming farther than possible or are forced to be land-bound through summer. Their lives are made by the heavy winter cold and the extensive pack ice on which they travel and hunt. The small gain for guillemots is an enormous loss for polar bears. And, yes, polar bears are a more charismatic species receiving more attention, but, of course, the world is a poorer place for the loss of any species.

While being able to nest a few weeks early appears beneficial on the surface, the reality is Guillemots feed along the ice pack edge. As eggs are laid, and chicks develop, overworked Guillemot parents repeatedly fly to the pack ice to feed themselves and return to Cooper with one fish at a time for their growing young. When the pack ice is near, this equals fat and happy chicks with plenty of Arctic cod to help them grow toward fledging. As the pack recedes from shore and the distance increases, chicks feed less often; parents burn more of their strength commuting and are sometimes required to shift to less desirable forage fish. The location of the ice can change many times through a season; but as the overall size of the pack decreases, the time it is within range of the breeding colony can also decrease.

Now

At times in the past, pack ice was sometimes far offshore and the colony had a dismal showing for the summer’s work. But Guillemots are long-lived birds and the following year provided new opportunities. Now, pack ice consistently does not form as early, nor stay as late. It is not as thick; it retreats farther from shore. It breaks up earlier and provides a less cohesive mass. Being far offshore is the norm, rather than the exception. All of this potentially leads to reduced fitness and productivity.

Where am I going with this? These small threads simply laid out here are the tiniest fraction of all the pieces that fit together to make our world what it is. The intricacy of connections, circumstances, and continuity is, with all of our advanced science and knowledge, still mostly guessed. Each discovery is accompanied by dozens of questions. For all of our bluster and arrogance, we are repeatedly humbled by findings that take us to new places and show us the error of our previous certainties (think blood-letting, asbestos, and nuclear weapons).

To tie some of these threads together for myself, I am embarking on a residency to Svalbard, a Norwegian territory east of Greenland and above the Arctic Circle. Relative to Cooper, many things are different: it is an archipelago, it will be autumn, it will be dark most of the day, and colder than Cooper in summer, the chaotic summer life will have moved south by the time I arrive. The world and I are 18 years older. I see this as the next phase in the Cooper process, a progression of seasons being redefined as we live them.

As I was writing this, I briefly lost the post in the ether; saving the draft returned a blank page. After much swearing, and an impossible attempt to string the ones and zeros of my words together again, I found the draft invisibly saved in the blog menu. Now, this occurrence neatly ties my thoughts together.

What do we know of the fabric of the Arctic? What do we know of things lost and what can we surmise from the departed? What happens when the richly wrought landscape becomes a blank page? There is no backup menu or replacement post. It is there, or it is not. Much like the lost post, how the threads unravel and disintegrate into the void, is unknown. What we do know is that stringing new ones and zeros together in a way that resembles the original is impossible.

I would be delighted to have you join me virtually for the trip to Svalbard. There is much to be learned and explored. There is much more to the natural world than ones and zeros.

 

 

 

 

 

The Road not Taken Enough